The US-Israel vs Iran war is on, and I recollect my visit to Iran on board Ganga in 1992. I joined the Indian Naval Ship Ganga in March 1992 as a logistics officer at Mumbai. She was young and the frontline ship of the Western Fleet. Though I had been on ship duties earlier as an executive officer, this was to be my first independent LOGO tenure. I was to be the most junior HOD. The logistics department has a large mandate on board—finance, material, food and catering, office management, and secretarial duties. 

Soon I was part of the system, and my seniors and staff helped me settle and learn the ropes early. Time passed quickly from one fleet exercise to another, families’ day, inspection, change of command, etc. The new commanding officer was the late Captain Vinay Singh, a hard taskmaster and a professional of high order.

In December we were slated to go to Bandar Abbas in Iran, Dubai in the UAE, and Muscat in Oman on a foreign cruise with fleet commander RAdm Madhvendra Singh on board. In accordance with the regulations, I loaded the ship sufficiently with fresh, tinned, and dry rations catering for the long sailing. 

However, there was one issue regarding foreign currency. Normally we would get the foreign currency at the port of call by the Indian embassy, but with respect to Iran, on account of the regime in control, we were to take the currency from India in dollars. I collected the same from SBI Mumbai. 

So around Dec. 3, 1992, we sailed for the Gulf with our shopping lists. I had known of the famous ‘Persian carpets’ and planned to buy one in Iran. Then one day, as we were mid-sea, we heard of the demolition of the Babri Masjid on 6 December and unrest in  Mumbai in our ship’s radio. We were directed to return to Mumbai. I recollect driving in my second-hand Lambretta scooter  toward Metro and Princes Street, which were all empty and closed, and part of the city was in curfew. In fact, we were quite happy to be home with our families. But then what was I to do with one month of fresh rations on board? The closure in Mumbai came as a saviour! The fresh ration had stopped coming to Mumbai, and there was a crisis in the city. I advised my CO that I could give fresh ration to married personnel on payment under the existing rules, and he agreed , I was relieved. We were alongside for about ten days when were directed to sail again to Iran and other nations and advised to reply to the demolition of the mosque by stating that it was an unfortunate incident and that it would be rebuilt and that is what we stated to a host of queries later.

I remember that we were near the Makran coast making way toward Iran when a Pakistani frigate was following us closely, we exchanged a few messages, and that was it. On a cold winter morning we entered Bandar Abbas. I had taken my warm jacket which helped . The naval attaché in Tehran, along with his staff, had come to receive us along with the Iranian staff. Normally the fresh rations are arranged by the Indian embassy. However, we were told to go to the market and buy for ourselves. There were restrictions in our movement.

I could go to the market with one sailor and the Iranian armed guard was to accompany us in his jeep. Therefore, I, along with my stores sailor, went to the vegetable and fruit market, which was a pleasant  surprise as I had not seen such superior quality items ever and in such large numbers, well spread out in a variety of colours. Items were very reasonably priced, and so I purchased a large quantity of fresh variety and dry fruits as well. The ship was happy and surprised to see such quality. 

 In the evening there was regular cocktail on board our ship with only juice and soft drinks and no liquor . Many Iranian Naval  officers attended the function without ladies  , there was one clergyman also present keeping a watchful eye , smiling . Well! The country was now an Islamic Republic and some remembered the days of Shah when the guests of the visiting ships were flown to Tehran  and shown around . We offered beer to our liaison officer who consumed it privately  in one cabin and said that now we drink in private and pray in public, earlier it was the other way round .   I got introduced to one Lt Cdr Mehmood who was a Logistics officer and we talked a lot and he invited me for the party next day which was hosted by the Iranian Navy in their Mess ashore. As was my state in the vegetable market here too I was dazed but not alone . The wide spread of various Iranian dishes along with flower decoration ,  vegetable soup and fruit juice . No water was served . We boast of Indian hospitality but here we were a pale shadow! The long basmati rice was served and I felt good about India but I  was informed later that it was from Iran the Basmati rice went to Afghanistan who brought it to Dehradun when Afghan royals were exiled in  19th century.  

 We had little flexibility to see the place but I did go to the market to search for the Persian carpet but what was offered was the power loom make found in abundance in Dubai . Persian beauty eluded us as they were now in burqa but still wore stilettoes and lipstick . 

A day before our departure we were informed that there were no bills to be paid but for the pilotage . The difficulty arose when we learnt that there were three exchange rates prevalent. Since I was not sure which one applied to us, we approached the government finance department for clarification. I was taken by the embassy staff to a remote posh locality which housed the office of finance . I was in front of a young unsure lady in hijab and our embassy staff was trying to explain to her, but she stated that we will have to pay the highest exchange rate, which we found ridiculous. We returned without a reasonable decision and asked the embassy staff to resolve the issue. The next morning we were to sail, and this payment was pending, and so I made a payment receipt matching the lowest exchange rate, which was around 900 dollars, and handed over the amount to our naval attaché and obtained his signatures.

 A big burden was off my chest as we cast off and sailed toward the opposite coast to Dubai. But at that time what surprised me was that there was no big issue regarding the Babri Masjid and they believed in what we said. Perhaps our historical relations had something to contribute. 

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